:root{color-scheme:light;--bg: #f6f5f2;--surface: #ffffff;--ink: #1f2428;--muted: #626a70;--line: #d8ddd9;--accent: #245b4f;--accent-soft: #e5eee9;--paper: #fbfaf7;font-family:Inter,ui-sans-serif,system-ui,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,Segoe UI,sans-serif}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;height:100%}body{margin:0;min-height:100%;height:100%;color:var(--ink);background:var(--bg)}a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}img{display:block;max-width:100%}.site-shell{width:min(1100px,calc(100% - 40px));margin:0 auto;padding:28px 0 64px;min-height:100vh;display:flex;flex-direction:column}.site-content{flex:1}.nav{position:relative;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:24px;padding:14px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.nav-toggle{display:none;align-items:center;justify-content:center;flex-direction:column;gap:5px;width:44px;height:44px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:10px;padding:0;color:var(--ink);background:var(--surface);cursor:pointer}.nav-toggle__bar{display:block;width:18px;height:2px;border-radius:999px;background:currentColor;transition:transform .16s ease,opacity .16s ease}.nav--open .nav-toggle__bar:nth-child(1){transform:translateY(7px) rotate(45deg)}.nav--open .nav-toggle__bar:nth-child(2){opacity:0}.nav--open .nav-toggle__bar:nth-child(3){transform:translateY(-7px) rotate(-45deg)}.brand{font-size:.98rem;font-weight:750}.nav-links{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:22px;color:var(--muted);font-size:.95rem}.nav-links a:hover,.nav-links a[aria-current=page]{color:var(--ink)}.eyebrow,.section-kicker,.meta-label{margin:0 0 14px;color:var(--accent);font-size:.78rem;font-weight:800;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase}h1,h2,h3,h4,p,ul{margin-top:0}h1{max-width:820px;margin-bottom:18px;font-size:clamp(2.4rem,5vw,3.8rem);line-height:1.02}h2{margin-bottom:0;font-size:clamp(1.55rem,3vw,2.35rem);line-height:1.12}h3{margin-bottom:22px;font-size:1.15rem}h4{margin-bottom:6px;font-size:1.05rem}.hero{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1.15fr) minmax(320px,.85fr);gap:36px;align-items:center;padding:clamp(56px,10vh,96px) 0}.hero-copy{max-width:720px}.hero-subtitle{margin:0 0 20px;color:var(--ink);font-size:clamp(1.35rem,2.5vw,1.85rem);font-weight:650;line-height:1.25}.intro,.body-copy,.rich-copy{color:var(--muted);font-size:1.06rem;line-height:1.78}.hero-actions,.button-row{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:12px;margin-top:32px}.button{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;min-height:46px;border:1px solid var(--accent);border-radius:6px;padding:0 18px;font-weight:750;line-height:1.2;transition:border-color .16s ease,background-color .16s ease,color .16s ease}.button.primary{color:#fff;background:var(--accent)}.button.secondary{color:var(--accent);background:transparent}.button:hover{border-color:var(--ink)}.portrait-card,.card,.cv-column,.compact-section,.blog-card,.legal-card{border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;background:var(--surface)}.portrait-card{overflow:hidden}.portrait-card img,.portrait-image{width:100%;height:auto;object-fit:contain;object-position:center top}.page-hero-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(200px,240px) minmax(0,1fr);gap:32px;align-items:start;padding:56px 0 20px}.page-hero-layout:has(+.blog-overview-section),.page-hero-layout:has(+.map-section){padding-bottom:20px}.blog-overview-section{margin-top:0;padding-top:24px}.section.blog-overview-section{padding-top:24px}.blog-overview-section .blog-toolbar{margin-top:0;margin-bottom:28px}.page-hero-portrait{max-width:240px}.page-hero,.article-shell{padding:0 0 24px}.article-shell{padding-top:40px}.page-hero{max-width:720px}.page-hero-quote{display:flex;align-items:flex-start;gap:10px;margin:0 0 24px;padding:18px 20px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:10px;background:var(--paper)}.page-hero-quote__mark{flex:0 0 auto;color:var(--muted);font-family:Georgia,Times New Roman,serif;font-size:2rem;font-weight:700;line-height:1}.page-hero-quote__text{margin:0;color:var(--muted);font-size:1.05rem;line-height:1.7}.portrait-caption{padding:16px 18px 18px;color:var(--muted);font-size:.95rem}.section{padding:76px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.split{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.85fr 1.15fr;gap:64px}.highlight-list,.plain-list,.meta-list{display:grid;gap:10px;margin:22px 0 0;padding:0;list-style:none}.highlight-list li,.plain-list li{position:relative;padding-left:18px}.highlight-list li:before,.plain-list li:before{position:absolute;left:0;color:var(--accent);content:"/"}.section-heading{max-width:740px;margin-bottom:42px}.teaser-grid,.gallery-grid,.blog-grid{display:grid;gap:18px}.teaser-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr))}.gallery-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:22px}.card,.legal-card{padding:24px}.blog-card{display:flex;flex-direction:column;overflow:hidden;padding:0}.blog-card[hidden]{display:none}.gallery-grid figure{margin:0;display:flex;flex-direction:column;overflow:hidden;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:16px;background:var(--surface);box-shadow:0 10px 28px #14181c0f;transition:transform .18s ease,box-shadow .18s ease,border-color .18s ease}.gallery-grid figure:hover{transform:translateY(-2px);border-color:#c8d0cb;box-shadow:0 16px 36px #14181c1a}.gallery-grid__open{display:block;width:100%;border:0;padding:0;background:transparent;cursor:zoom-in}.gallery-grid img{aspect-ratio:4 / 3;width:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .22s ease}.gallery-grid figure:hover img{transform:scale(1.02)}.gallery-grid figcaption{padding:14px 16px 16px;color:var(--ink);font-size:.92rem;font-weight:600;line-height:1.35;letter-spacing:.01em;text-align:left;background:linear-gradient(180deg,var(--paper) 0%,var(--surface) 100%);border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.gallery-grid__item--hidden{display:none}.gallery-grid__load-more-wrap{grid-column:1 / -1;display:flex;justify-content:center;padding-top:8px}.cv-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:36px}.cv-column,.compact-section{padding:28px}.timeline{display:grid;gap:26px}.timeline-item{padding-top:22px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.timeline-item:first-child{padding-top:0;border-top:0}.timeline-item p{margin-bottom:0;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.65}.timeline-period,.blog-meta{margin-bottom:8px;color:var(--accent);font-size:.86rem;font-weight:800}.timeline-place{margin-bottom:8px;color:var(--ink);font-weight:700}.timeline-item--with-photo{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) minmax(132px,168px);gap:20px;align-items:start}.timeline-photo{margin:0;overflow:hidden;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;background:var(--paper);box-shadow:0 10px 28px #14181c14}.timeline-photo img{display:block;width:100%;aspect-ratio:3 / 4;object-fit:cover}.timeline-group__entries{display:grid;gap:10px;margin-top:12px}.timeline-subitem{padding-top:10px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.timeline-subitem:first-child{padding-top:0;border-top:0}.timeline-subitem__line{margin:0;color:var(--muted);font-size:.9rem;line-height:1.45}.timeline-subitem__line strong{color:var(--ink);font-weight:700}.compact-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.4fr .8fr;gap:18px;margin-top:18px}.tag-list{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px}.tag-list span{border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:999px;padding:6px 11px;color:var(--muted);background:var(--paper);font-size:.86rem;font-weight:600}.blog-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}.blog-card__media{aspect-ratio:16 / 9;overflow:hidden;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--paper)}.blog-card__media img{display:block;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:center}.blog-card__body{display:flex;flex:1;flex-direction:column;padding:24px}.blog-card h3,.card h3{margin-bottom:10px}.blog-card__body p,.card p,.legal-card p,.legal-card li{color:var(--muted);line-height:1.7}.article-cover{margin:0 0 32px;overflow:hidden;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;background:var(--surface)}.article-cover img{width:100%;aspect-ratio:16 / 7;object-fit:cover}.article-cover figcaption{padding:14px 18px 18px;color:var(--muted)}.article-content{max-width:760px;color:var(--ink)}.article-content :global(p),.article-content :global(li){color:var(--muted);line-height:1.85}.article-content :global(h2),.article-content :global(h3){margin-top:42px;margin-bottom:16px;font-size:1.5rem}.article-content :global(ul){padding-left:20px}.article-map{margin:36px 0}.article-location{margin-top:42px}.article-map-details{overflow:hidden;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;background:var(--surface)}.article-map-details summary{cursor:pointer;list-style:none;padding:14px 18px;color:var(--ink);font-weight:700}.article-map-details summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}.article-map-details summary:before{display:inline-block;margin-right:10px;color:var(--accent);content:"▸";transition:transform .16s ease}.article-map-details[open] summary:before{transform:rotate(90deg)}.article-map-details .blog-map-shell{border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.blog-map-shell[data-article-view=true] .blog-map{min-height:260px}.article-map h2{margin:0 0 14px;font-size:1.15rem}.blog-map{min-height:420px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;overflow:hidden;background:var(--surface)}.blog-map-empty{margin:0;padding:24px;color:var(--muted)}.blog-map-marker{background:transparent;border:0}.blog-map-marker span{display:block;width:18px;height:18px;border:2px solid #fff;border-radius:999px;box-shadow:0 2px 8px #1f242840}.blog-map-popup{display:grid;gap:4px;min-width:180px;font-size:.92rem;line-height:1.45}.blog-map-popup a{color:var(--accent);font-weight:700}.map-section{padding-top:0;margin-top:0}.map-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1.4fr) minmax(280px,.8fr);gap:18px;align-items:start}.map-list-panel{border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;background:var(--surface);padding:20px}.map-list-title{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:8px;margin:0 0 16px;font-size:1.05rem}.map-list-title__pin{font-size:1rem;line-height:1}.map-list-empty{margin:0;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.6}.map-entry-list{display:grid;gap:12px;margin:0;padding:0;list-style:none}.map-entry-list li{display:grid;gap:8px;padding-bottom:12px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.map-entry-list__item--hidden{display:none!important}.map-entry-list li:last-child{padding-bottom:0;border-bottom:0}.map-entry-item{display:grid;gap:4px;width:100%;border:0;padding:0;background:transparent;text-align:left;cursor:pointer}.map-entry-item:hover strong{color:var(--accent)}.map-entry-meta,.map-entry-date{color:var(--muted);font-size:.86rem}.map-entry-link{color:var(--accent);font-size:.9rem;font-weight:700}.blog-toolbar--map{gap:0}.blog-toolbar__row{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:12px 16px;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between}.blog-toolbar__row .blog-filter{flex:1 1 auto}.blog-toolbar{display:grid;gap:18px;margin-bottom:28px}.blog-toolbar__primary{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:12px;align-items:center}.blog-toolbar__primary .blog-search{flex:1 1 240px}.blog-toolbar__map{flex-shrink:0;white-space:nowrap;margin-left:auto}.blog-search input{width:100%;max-width:420px;min-height:46px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:8px;padding:0 14px;color:var(--ink);background:var(--surface);font:inherit}.blog-search input:focus{outline:2px solid var(--accent-soft);border-color:var(--accent)}.visually-hidden{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;padding:0;margin:-1px;overflow:hidden;clip:rect(0,0,0,0);white-space:nowrap;border:0}.blog-filter{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px}.blog-filter__button{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;min-height:40px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:999px;padding:0 16px;color:var(--muted);background:var(--surface);font-weight:700}.blog-filter__button.is-active,.blog-filter__button:hover{border-color:var(--accent);color:var(--accent)}.blog-filter-empty{margin:0;color:var(--muted)}.blog-meta{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px 12px;align-items:center}.blog-category{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;border:1.5px solid currentColor;border-radius:5px;padding:2px 8px;font-size:.72rem;font-weight:800;letter-spacing:.06em;text-transform:uppercase;background:var(--surface)}.blog-category--travel{color:#0f766e;background:#ecfdf8}.blog-category--experience{color:#1d4ed8;background:#eff6ff}.blog-category--review{color:#a16207;background:#fffbeb}.blog-category--note{color:#7c3aed;background:#f5f3ff}.blog-category--food{color:#c2410c;background:#fff7ed}.blog-card__detail{margin:0;color:var(--muted);font-size:.92rem}.rating-scale{display:grid;gap:8px}.rating-scale__header{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:12px;font-size:.92rem}.rating-scale__label{font-weight:700}.rating-scale__value{color:var(--muted)}.rating-scale__track{height:8px;border-radius:999px;background:var(--accent-soft);overflow:hidden}.rating-scale__fill{display:block;height:100%;border-radius:inherit;background:var(--accent)}.category-rating{display:grid;gap:6px;margin:12px 0 16px}.category-rating--overall{margin:0 0 18px;padding:14px 16px;border:1px solid #bfd4cd;border-radius:10px;background:var(--accent-soft)}.category-rating--overall .category-rating__label{color:var(--accent);font-size:.8rem;letter-spacing:.08em;text-transform:uppercase}.category-rating__label{color:var(--muted);font-size:.86rem;font-weight:700}.category-rating__icons{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px}.category-rating__icon{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;width:28px;height:28px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:7px;color:#c5cbc7;background:var(--paper);transition:color .16s ease,border-color .16s ease,background-color .16s ease}.category-rating--overall .category-rating__icon{width:32px;height:32px}.category-rating__icon.is-active{color:var(--accent);border-color:#bfd4cd;background:var(--surface)}.category-rating--overall .category-rating__icon.is-active{background:var(--surface)}.category-rating__plane,.category-rating__star{font-size:.9rem;line-height:1}.category-rating--overall .category-rating__plane,.category-rating--overall .category-rating__star{font-size:1rem}.category-rating__chef{width:16px;height:16px;fill:currentColor}.category-rating--overall .category-rating__chef{width:18px;height:18px}.food-ratings{margin:24px 0;padding:18px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:12px;background:var(--paper)}.food-ratings__group{border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:10px;background:var(--surface);overflow:hidden}.food-ratings__group-summary{cursor:pointer;list-style:none;padding:12px 14px;color:var(--ink);font-size:.92rem;font-weight:700}.food-ratings__group-summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}.food-ratings__group-summary:before{display:inline-block;margin-right:10px;color:var(--accent);content:"▸";transition:transform .16s ease}.food-ratings__group[open] .food-ratings__group-summary:before{transform:rotate(90deg)}.food-ratings__group-body{display:grid;gap:12px;padding:0 14px 14px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.food-rating-row{display:grid;gap:6px;padding-top:12px}.food-rating-row__header{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:12px}.food-rating-row__label{color:var(--ink);font-size:.9rem;font-weight:700}.food-rating-row__value{color:var(--muted);font-size:.84rem;font-weight:600}.food-rating-row .category-rating{margin:0}.article-highlight{margin:24px 0;padding:18px 20px;border-left:4px solid var(--accent);color:var(--ink);background:var(--accent-soft);font-size:1.08rem;line-height:1.6}.gallery-section{margin-top:42px}.gallery-section h2{margin:0 0 18px;font-size:1.15rem}.gallery-grid--post{grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(180px,1fr))}.gallery-tile{margin:0;padding:0;border:0;border-radius:0;overflow:hidden;background:#eef1ee;cursor:zoom-in}.gallery-tile img{aspect-ratio:4 / 3;width:100%;object-fit:cover;transition:transform .22s ease}.gallery-tile:hover img{transform:scale(1.02)}.gallery-lightbox{width:min(960px,calc(100vw - 32px));height:min(720px,calc(100vh - 32px));max-width:calc(100vw - 32px);max-height:calc(100vh - 32px);border:0;padding:0;margin:auto;background:transparent;overflow:hidden}.gallery-lightbox[open]{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center}.gallery-lightbox::backdrop{background:#14181c6b;backdrop-filter:blur(6px);-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(6px)}.gallery-lightbox__frame{position:relative;display:flex;flex-direction:column;width:100%;height:100%;min-height:0;padding:44px 16px 16px;border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.72);border-radius:20px;background:#ffffff94;backdrop-filter:blur(28px) saturate(165%);-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(28px) saturate(165%);box-shadow:0 24px 80px #0f121429,inset 0 1px #ffffffe0;box-sizing:border-box}.gallery-lightbox__stage{display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto 1fr auto;gap:12px;align-items:center;flex:1;min-height:0}.gallery-lightbox__viewport{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;width:100%;height:100%;min-height:0;overflow:hidden}.gallery-lightbox__footer{display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;gap:8px;flex-shrink:0;margin-top:12px;padding:0 8px 2px}.gallery-lightbox__image{display:block;max-width:100%;max-height:100%;width:auto;height:auto;margin:0 auto;object-fit:contain;object-position:center}.gallery-lightbox__caption-text{margin:0;color:var(--ink);font-size:.9rem;font-weight:600;line-height:1.3;text-align:center}.gallery-lightbox__actions{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;justify-content:center}.gallery-lightbox__action,.gallery-lightbox__close,.gallery-lightbox__nav{border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.68);color:var(--ink);background:#ffffff70;backdrop-filter:blur(14px) saturate(150%);-webkit-backdrop-filter:blur(14px) saturate(150%);box-shadow:inset 0 1px #ffffffc7;cursor:pointer;transition:background-color .16s ease,border-color .16s ease,transform .16s ease}.gallery-lightbox__action:hover,.gallery-lightbox__close:hover,.gallery-lightbox__nav:hover{border-color:#ffffffe6;background:#ffffffa8}.gallery-lightbox__action{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;min-height:36px;border-radius:999px;padding:0 14px;font-size:.85rem;font-weight:700;text-decoration:none;white-space:nowrap}.gallery-lightbox__close{position:absolute;top:0;right:0;z-index:3;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;width:40px;height:40px;border-radius:999px;padding:0;font-size:1.6rem;line-height:1}.gallery-lightbox__close span{display:block;margin-top:-2px}.gallery-lightbox__nav{min-width:42px;min-height:42px;border-radius:999px;font-size:1.6rem;line-height:1}.legal-grid{display:grid;gap:18px}.legal-page{padding-top:48px;flex:1}.legal-card--compact{max-width:560px}.legal-card--compact h1{margin-bottom:12px;font-size:clamp(1.8rem,3vw,2.4rem)}.legal-lead{margin:0 0 24px;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.7}.legal-details{display:grid;gap:18px;margin:0}.legal-details div{display:grid;gap:4px}.legal-details dt{color:var(--accent);font-size:.78rem;font-weight:800;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase}.legal-details dd{margin:0;color:var(--ink);font-size:1rem}.footer{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:16px;margin-top:auto;padding-top:24px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);color:var(--muted)}.footer-links{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:18px}@media(max-width:960px){.hero,.page-hero-layout,.split,.teaser-grid,.gallery-grid,.cv-layout,.compact-grid,.blog-grid,.timeline-item--with-photo{grid-template-columns:1fr}.timeline-photo{max-width:220px}.page-hero-portrait{max-width:280px}.map-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr}}@media(max-width:820px){.nav,.footer{align-items:flex-start;flex-direction:column}.nav{flex-direction:row;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center}.nav-toggle{display:inline-flex;margin-left:auto}.nav-links{display:none;width:100%;flex-direction:column;align-items:stretch;gap:0;margin-top:12px;padding-top:12px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.nav-links a{display:block;padding:12px 0}.nav--open .nav-links{display:flex}body.nav-menu-open{overflow:hidden}.section{padding:58px 0}.section.blog-overview-section{padding-top:20px}}@media(max-width:520px){.site-shell{width:min(100% - 24px,1100px);padding-top:14px}h1{font-size:2.2rem}h2{font-size:1.55rem}.intro,.body-copy,.rich-copy{font-size:1rem}.button{width:100%}.card,.cv-column,.compact-section,.legal-card,.blog-card__body{padding:22px}}